We are loving Letná, the off-the-beaten track neighborhood across the Vltava River from Old Town where we’re staying during our Prague sojourn. What’s to love? Number One: no tourists. And then, well, there’s a zillion cafés serving sweet treats and sumptuous lattes, including the lovely Café Letka right next door. There are free movies at a labyrinthian Steampunk squat and cheap movies at a 1930s cinema and all the movies are about eastern european Roma people and have the most incredible soundtracks. There’s authentic Czech food and big friendly waitresses.There’s an outdoor beer garden with breathtaking views of Old Town. There’s big headed black beer on tap. There are cute trams filled with people at all hours of the day and night. There’s the National Technical Museum that contains everything ever made in the Czech republic. There’s an incredible thrift store with really awesome postcards for 10 cents. There are “elevators of death“. There are giant parks. There are glamorous apartment buildings with cherubs and wrought iron gates, there are brutalist concrete office blocks, there are art deco shops, there are mid-century modern pavillions. There’s art: high AND low. There’s nonstop služba. And did I mention the dogs?