Today, a journey to Gijduvan, about 40 miles from Bukhara. Women sing songs in honour of the birth of Muhammad at one of the seven sacred Sufi sites in the region. Seven generations of ceramicists make pottery for the people. Seven skewers of shashlik are devoured by Paolo, Lisa, Zilola and Shavkat at lunch…we share #8 with the kitten in the courtyard. Seven chickens enjoy a sunny afternoon at the workshop of the 85-year-old clay toy whistle maker Kubaro Boboeva. Lucky day!